TRAVEL ABROAD

Written by CHUCK CLEVELAND • Photographed by BARBARA CLEVELAND

According to Travel and Leisure Magazine, Florence ranked as Europe’s top city in 2020. That comes as no surprise to my wife Barbara and me.

Michelangelo’s magnificent David, Botticelli’s brilliant paintings at the Uffizi Gallery, and Ghiberti’s glorious East Doors of the Baptistery are among the treasures that have long established Florence as one of the leading art centers of the world. Except during pandemic years, millions of visitors travel annually to Florence to admire these famous works of art.

After seven visits to the city, we have identified more personal reasons we find Florence so wonderful, and they are: the Domed Duomo, the historic hotel, and the fantastic food and friendly Florentines.

The Domed Duomo

The focus of Florence is definitely the Duomo (actual name, Santa Maria del Fiori), which physically dominates the City Centre. Filippo Brunelleschi completed its massive cupola in 1436, and his remarkable architectural achievement was to build the largest dome of his time – and still the largest brick dome – without scaffolding. It has been suggested that its immense size was in keeping with Florentine aspiration to be superior in all things. If that were Brunelleschi’s motivation, I’d say he succeeded. The church’s exterior – constructed of white, pink and green marble – is so beautiful that it continually evokes reverence, even among the nonreligious.

One evening while strolling through the piazza between the Duomo and the Baptistery, Barbara and I perceived a peace there that pervaded the surrounding area, and it was a joy to savor. You could sense the Renaissance period established a heritage of greatness that still hovers over the historic district, and nowhere is it more evident than around the Cathedral.

The Historic Hotel

Staying overnight in the City Centre enhanced our appreciation of Florence’s impressive past, so we selected the Helvetia and Bristol, a hotel that perfectly represents the city. The H&B opened in 1894 and has attracted many of Europe’s leading citizens ever since. Its 67 unique rooms and suites provide an elegant ambience and refined charm that transport guests back to the grandeur of a bygone age, and that was exactly what we wanted to experience. Worth noting is that the H&B is only a few blocks from several famous Italian stores.

A five-star hotel, the Helvetia and Bristol employs an exceptional staff, and some of them have become our friends. Once when our arrival was delayed by six hours, Reservations Manager Monica Nardi stayed well past her closing time to ensure we were safe and to embrace us with a hug when we arrived. Head Concierge Alessandro Marchese has always arranged our activities to maximize our visits, but he also takes time from his demanding schedule to share pictures of his wife and teenage daughters.

Travel can sometimes be tedious, and it’s a most peaceful feeling to enjoy a welcoming environment with the H&B family.

The Fantastic Food and Friendly Florentines

There are many outstanding restaurants in the City Centre, including Buca Mario, La Giostra and Le Fonticine. We’ve noticed that what they have in common is that each evening meal provides a celebration of Florentine life and outstanding Tuscan cooking. The cuisine at these restaurants is exceptional, but the most lasting memory of our dining adventures didn’t involve grilled meats, pasta or gelato.

Late into a Saturday night when we had finished our meal at Le Fonticine, I suddenly realized my credit card was back at the hotel. The owner graciously allowed me to go back to the hotel to retrieve payment while Barbara remained at the restaurant. The Florentine friendliness was multiplied by the other couple in the dining room inviting Barbara to join them until my return.

With sensational historical sites, phenomenal food and kind-hearted people, Florence is, indeed, fabulous. On a scale of 1 to 10, we rate it a 12.

NCM